I think that the south of Bulgaria is much more beautiful than the north, but that’s because I love the mountains and I have explored the south significantly more. Yet, going further south east did not feel like a good option, so me, Niki and Pete decided to leave the Rila mountain region, stay another night at Niki’s and then to head north – to Lovech area, where we could go see two caves and waterfalls. Me and Niki have been to one of the caves and the waterfalls years ago, but things have changed a lot – as one of the caves is now guarded and has entry fee, the waterfalls had entry fee too, including a parking charge and one too many restaurants and little cabin shops. I understand why this is happening, but to be honest it saddened me.
We first went to a cave called God’s eyes. There were a couple of rock climbers at the time and very few people, but later on local people told us that hundreds of people visit the cave over the summer weekends. The acustics of this place were amazing. We spent around half an hour exploring the cave and goofing around.
Once we explored the God’s eyes cave we continued our trip to Devetashka cave, further East. I have been to the Devetashka cave years ago and now the atmosphere was different, and different in a way I didn’t really like. Yet again, it is one of those beautiful places worth visiting even for half an hour. If you go deeper in the Devetashka cave you can hear the squeaks of thousands of bats – there are around 15 different types of bats residing in this cave and at times they number 40 000. The size of the Devetashka cave is quite impressive too. According to BulgariaTravel.org ”the entrance of the cave is 35 meters wide and 30 meters high. About 40 meters after the entrance, the cave widens, forming a spacious hall with an area of 2,400 square meters. The height of the hall is 60 meters; at some places it reaches 100 meters.”
After exploring the Devetashka cave, we went off to the Krushuna waterfalls. Again, when we arrived at Krusuha waterfalls I found it very much changed and commercialised. To a degree this was disappointing. We had late lunch before going to the waterfalls, and I got to feed 4 strays with some dog food I had with us in the car. One of the dogs actually followed us to the waterfalls and waited for us to get back down, so he can walk us back to our car. He was so cute, such an amazing being!
The waterfalls did not feel the same either…. Things have changed, more specifically – in a typical Bulgarian fashion, some of the bridges and paths have been closed due to a landslide rather than restored, so unless you are as crazy as I am and go via some dangerous paths even mountain goats would avoid, you are bound to miss a few of the nice views of the waterfall.
Niki was still tired from the Seven Rila Lakes hike and decided to wait for us at the bottom of the waterfalls and me and Pete were adventurous enough and had some more strenght to hike up to those areas of the waterfall that were blocked. On the way up I regretted not having my hiking boots on, but on the way down I felt like the boots and the poles would have made the trip much more easy and nice.. but oh well… We did get out of it alive and it will forever be a weird and fun memory.
It was the late afternoon when we finally headed back to Sofia as this was our final day with Pete in Bulgaria, and we had to take him to the airport the next day. I was so tired, I just wanted to go to bed and rest…
The next day was difficult from a couple of perspectives – saying goodbye to Pete, and going back to the reality in Bulgaria. The biggest fun was over and now I had to work on the website, catch up with people, plan what’s next and deal with the issues of everyday life in Bulgaria – which is a rather draining experience for me. So I am grateful and happy I had this week of adventures in the mountains and in the wild with two very special and amazing men! It was wonderful and positive!